Food and wine Nazis
By Phil Parker
One thing, which really annoys the crap out of me about wine culture particularly in New Zealand, is the whole food and wine matching obsession.
Generally they fall into two camps. On one side, are wine writers who are vehemently prescriptive about what precise food has to be matched with a particular wine. On the other hand – newbie wine fans who worry themselves sick about serving the wrong wine with the wrong food, and therefore causing great social embarrassment.
Refreshingly, most of us don’t give a toss, and quite rightly drink whatever we feel like at the time. And personally, I think the flavour of food often intrudes on a very good wine which can often be enjoyed by itself.
A not over-chilled glass of three year-old Chardonnay is a symphony of flavour and complexity in its own right, and doesn’t necessarily need to matched with broiled, quince jam glazed spatchcock, resting on a salmon truffle mousseline duvet, accompanied by a string quartet of king prawns in tails with lemon grass cummerbunds, knee-deep in boysenberry coulis.
Sure – delicate poached Snapper and a knock-down drag-out South Australian Shiraz are a dodgy combination. Conversely, a shy floral Pinot Gris won’t stand up to a hearty venison casserole. But my experience with most dinner parties is that by around main course time, there are about five wines on the table – whites and reds, and everyone is helping themselves to a bit of this and a bit of that, talking nine to the dozen and having a fab time.
Meanwhile the po-faced wine writers would be rolling their eyes, and the newbie wine fans sobbing into their soufflés in a fit of confusion. Yes, there are some classic combinations: Sauterne and blue cheese. Chardonnay and oysters. Sauvignon Blanc and asparagus. Gewürztraminer and Thai food.
Just don’t forget – wine is all about enjoyment and good company.Even if it is just yourself and a damn fine bottle of your favourite wine.
One thing, which really annoys the crap out of me about wine culture particularly in New Zealand, is the whole food and wine matching obsession.
Generally they fall into two camps. On one side, are wine writers who are vehemently prescriptive about what precise food has to be matched with a particular wine. On the other hand – newbie wine fans who worry themselves sick about serving the wrong wine with the wrong food, and therefore causing great social embarrassment.
Refreshingly, most of us don’t give a toss, and quite rightly drink whatever we feel like at the time. And personally, I think the flavour of food often intrudes on a very good wine which can often be enjoyed by itself.
A not over-chilled glass of three year-old Chardonnay is a symphony of flavour and complexity in its own right, and doesn’t necessarily need to matched with broiled, quince jam glazed spatchcock, resting on a salmon truffle mousseline duvet, accompanied by a string quartet of king prawns in tails with lemon grass cummerbunds, knee-deep in boysenberry coulis.
Sure – delicate poached Snapper and a knock-down drag-out South Australian Shiraz are a dodgy combination. Conversely, a shy floral Pinot Gris won’t stand up to a hearty venison casserole. But my experience with most dinner parties is that by around main course time, there are about five wines on the table – whites and reds, and everyone is helping themselves to a bit of this and a bit of that, talking nine to the dozen and having a fab time.
Meanwhile the po-faced wine writers would be rolling their eyes, and the newbie wine fans sobbing into their soufflés in a fit of confusion. Yes, there are some classic combinations: Sauterne and blue cheese. Chardonnay and oysters. Sauvignon Blanc and asparagus. Gewürztraminer and Thai food.
Just don’t forget – wine is all about enjoyment and good company.Even if it is just yourself and a damn fine bottle of your favourite wine.
1 Comments:
it was interesting to see a recent study that shows eating cheese suppresses your ability to taste the differences between different quality wines...
"Bernice Madrigal-Galan and Hildegarde Heymann of the University of California, Davis, presented trained wine tasters with cheap and expensive versions of four different varieties of wine. The tasters evaluated the strength of various flavours and aromas in each wine both alone and when preceded by eight different cheeses.
They found that cheese suppressed just about everything, including berry and oak flavours, sourness and astringency. Only butter aroma was enhanced by cheese, and that is probably because cheese itself contains the molecule responsible for a buttery wine aroma, Heymann says. Strong cheeses suppressed flavours more than milder cheeses, but flavours of all wines were suppressed. In other words, there are no magical wine and cheese pairings."
from New Scientist.
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